I was digging through my On Rye archives, and I found an old post from last summer that I did in Xinjiang , the western part of China that has recently seen a lot of unrest (riots, etc.).
Here’s an excerpt from that post:
Today, the balance is tense. I developed a system for telling where the ethnic “line” was: language of signage. That is, when you see a sign for a restaurant or building or museum or park, etc., the question you should ask is how big is the Uigher script in comparison to the Chinese script. Some signs have just Chinese or just Uigher and that tells you where the owner of the building, restaurant, government, etc. stands.
And here is a photo I took of two Uigher girls in the main square in Kashgar. I was dishearted by a recent NYTimes article that described plans to demolish much of the old town in Kashgar.